西班牙国宝品牌CARMINA进入中国
(联合电讯/北京)--2012年3月西班牙国宝品牌CARMINA进入中国，让我们了解一下她的历史，品味她的诗意的品牌故事：
品牌档案
· 国家：西班牙
· 创建时间:1866年
· 创始人：Matías Pujadas
· 产品系列：英伦风格男式皮鞋,纯手工定制
◆ 网站：carminashoemaker.com
◆ 中国官网：WASSLESS.com
一 品牌历史
1866
SINCE 1866
1866年，品牌创始人Matías Pujadas在西班牙的马略卡岛开了一家小作坊，在那里他开始各具特色量身订做的鞋子。 A generation later, his son Mateo Pujadas followed in his footsteps, and in 1905 he opened one of the first factories of Goodyear-stitched shoes in the Balearic Islands.一代人之后，他的儿子Mateo Pujadas跟随他的脚步，并于1905年，他开设了巴利阿里群岛的首屈一指的固特异缝制鞋工厂。Carmina确定工厂宗旨是:永远选择最好的皮革品质，选用最优秀的手工艺人，我们的工匠只提供最好的手工皮鞋。Carmina以其精益求精的质量和舒适奢华的享受演绎着百年传奇。
Albaladejo Pujadas
1961
In 1961, José Albaladejo Pujadas, the founder's great-grandson, continued the family tradition when he created one of Spain's largest shoe companies. 1961年，家族第三代传人，Albaladejo Pujadas继续家庭传统，当他创造了西班牙最大的制鞋企业之一。Carmina奢华手工制鞋引导着欧洲各国皇宫贵族、社会名流的消费时尚，代表了世界手工制鞋工艺的最高水准。
1997
In 1997, after a downturn in the market when the demand for luxury shoes dropped dramatically, José Albaladejo decided to create a new company together with his wife and some of his sons in their native Majorca.在1997年后，在市场低迷时高档鞋的需求下降时期， Albaladejo与他的妻子和他的儿子在家乡马略卡顶住压力，一起成立卡米亚艺术中心， 筹集巨资招募和挽留超过300人的西班牙和英国民间The new business was called Carmina Shoemaker, and its goal was to create some of the world's best hand-crafted shoes.鞋匠，其目标是创建世界上最好的手工制作的鞋坊。 In the few short years since its inception, Carmina Shoemaker has established eight shops (in Paris, Barcelona, Bilbao, Valladolid, Palma de Mallorca, and three in Madrid) and competes in some of the best shop displays in Europe, Japan and the US against the most distinguished English shoemakers.在短短几年中，在全球建立了8个店铺(巴黎，巴塞罗那，毕尔巴鄂，巴利亚多利德，帕尔马，马德里等)，并在欧洲，日本和美国在一些最好的商店显示竞争对最杰出的手工制鞋企业。Carmina鞋子成为了质量，身份和气质的代名词。
Carmina Shoemaker shoes are Goodyear-stitched with the same techniques, consistency and perfection as their English counterparts – the only difference being that it crafts them for women as well.
二 品牌定位
---世界高端手工鞋领袖品牌!
作为全球顶级手工鞋品牌之一，目前Carmina(卡米亚)的定制鞋店仅开设在巴黎，不过更换鞋后帮、修复鞋跟等等在马德里的门店都是必备的工艺。店员皆是中老年男士，这样的老派风气大大好过黑套装女sales的Berluti，他们的火眼金睛可以透过你的袜子和鞋子，然后便断言你望去的那款式到底穿不穿得进去。
说起西班牙的鞋履牌子，Lottusse显然要常见得多，但若来过本地你便知它和Carmina根本不能算一个阶级：前者只不过是价格略高的大众消费品，手工打制的Carmina(卡米亚)则代表着旧时代的传统和矜持。
三 品牌形象
四 品牌工艺
Carmina(卡米亚)的鞋子，凭着精心的备料、出色的设计及精湛的手工艺，足下生辉已超越百年。一双俨然是艺术品的Carmina手工鞋，必须经过多重严谨复杂的制作步骤。先是皮料的选择与处理、尺寸的测量及鞋楦的制作，再经过粘合、缝纫、修正、调整等复杂工序，最后经过手工打磨上光，一双华贵且舒适的鞋子才算完成。鞋子制作完成后开始穿着，仅是简单的保养就经得起时间的考验，从而成就一种永恒的华贵。有异于世界各地的独特制鞋方式，Carmina(卡米亚)以舒适闻名于世。正是这种独特的制鞋方式使Carmina(卡米亚)鞋永葆。设计师们独具匠心，在每一双鞋子上缝制属于自己心中的潮流。
Carmina(卡米亚)手工生产出来的鞋，需要通过近两个世纪沉淀出来的两百多道工序制成。鞋匠们将这些知识和经验融入到最高质量的皮料中制成Carmina(卡米亚)皮鞋。高质量皮料可以让您的脚部呼吸顺畅，特殊材质和经针线缝制的鞋底可以保持脚部的干爽，每一双Carmina(卡米亚)皮鞋都是制鞋文化、品质和精髓以及对完美的追求的化身。
Carmina(卡米亚)鞋匠们将他们丰富的制鞋经验、时尚灵感以及个性化元素融入到每一双鞋，Carmina(卡米亚)的鞋匠们每天都亲自挑选最高质量的全兽皮，通过传统的缓慢制革工艺和纯苯胺处理。遵循严格的质量控制，每一张皮革均经过制鞋专家的精挑细选和精准剪裁。鞋匠将经加工后的皮材缝合成鞋的上端部分。独特的双线隐缝缝合处理为鞋带来更高的耐久性。然后，手工安装鞋弓。鞋的上端部分与鞋内底拼合的时候，皮套、鞋弓、鞋跟都必须牢固粘合。最后，鞋匠用锤子和熨斗做终处理。鞋的上端经过精细的加工过程最终粘合在鞋模上。粘合后，鞋匠将鞋底缝合到上端部分。手工缝合非常关键，这能体现出鞋匠高超的技艺。就是因为它的复杂性和稀有性，使它备受爱鞋者们的青睐。
五 品牌故事
我第一次吸引了其非凡的亮度。 Dazzling.令人眼花缭乱。 I couldn't set my eyes on other designs or colours.我无法设置我的眼睛，在其他的设计或颜色。 I was fascinated by this shoe.我迷上了这种鞋。 Coloured.有色。 Embellished with baroque stitches.与巴洛克式的缝线点缀。 Goodyear welt-manufactured, that is to say, with a strip of leather stitched to the upper and insole of the shoe, as an attach-point for the sole and then, the space enclosed by the welt filled with tiny cork pieces, which provide incredible comfort.固特异伟力制造的，也就是说，用皮革缝制上，鞋的鞋垫地带，作为唯一的，然后，贴边封闭的空间充满了微小的软木片，附加点提供令人难以置信的舒适。 Thus, after wearing a pair for a few days they become your feet.因此，在为几天他们成为你的脚穿着一双后。
But I had to see it again.但我不得不再次看到它。 I was bewitched.我被迷住了。 If I went into the shop, they would probably let me touch it and I would be able to check its natural lineage.如果我进店去，他们很可能让我触摸它，我将能够检查其自然的血统。
Would the shop assistant let me…?店员让我... ...?
Now that man (the shop assistant) is watching me.现在男子(店员)是看着我。 He might be jealous.他可能是嫉妒。 No way!没办法! He is now beckoning me into the shop.他现在是召唤我进店。
I step in and say hello.我一步打个招呼。 It is not an ordinary shoe shop.这不是一个普通的鞋店。 In this one, off the shelves, next to the counter where a variety of shoe accessories are displayed - polishing wax, brushes,…- there is a counter with four brushes for all the different leather colours – black, brown, light colours,… - to polish shoes.在这其中，关闭的货架上，旁边的各种鞋配件显示计数器 - 抛光蜡，刷子，... - 有一个计数器四个画笔为所有不同的皮革颜色 - 黑色，棕色，浅的颜色，... ... - 擦皮鞋。 It is a special service offered to all customers.这是一个特殊的服务提供给所有客户。 They have their old shoes neatly polished while they are choosing designs and finding the right size.他们有他们的旧鞋子整齐的抛光，而他们在选择设计和寻找合适的大小。
该名男子微笑着看着我，让我在给我解释各种 He is not dressed as an ordinary shop assistant in an ordinary shoe shop.他是不是打扮成一个普通的店员，在一个普通的鞋店。 He is wearing a leather apron, like the one which the old shoe makers used to wear.他穿着一件皮围裙，像一个老制鞋商使用穿。
He greets me, shaking hands and with a friendly smile.他招呼我，晃动的手，一个友好的微笑。 And he tells me that shoes, literally, cannot speak. ，他告诉我，鞋子，从字面上看，不能发言。
However, the one I have chosen it's a spoiled one.不过，我选择它是一个被宠坏的的。
You can't perceive its voice but as soon as you see it you can't help wanting to hold it in your hands, turning it round.你无法感知它的声音，但只要你看到它，你不能帮助想握在你手中，将其轮。 Admiring and feeling.欣赏和感受。And then, it is as if you could hear it talking to you.然后，这是因为如果你能听到你说话。 Excellent quality and design.优良的品质和设计。
It is art made shoes!它是艺术造鞋! Or shoes made a work of art.或鞋的艺术作品。
Your fingers become more sensitive and you can feel how nicely the noble materials composing the shoes have been handled.你的手指变得更加敏感，你可以感受到高贵的材料组成的鞋子如何很好地已处理。 You can also sense how much love has been put into its making.您还可以感一直到其决策多少爱。
It is an English design of last century although it has been adapted.这是上个世纪的英式设计，虽然已经适应了。 It looks like a modern design!它看起来像一个现代设计!
The shop assistant makes the ins and outs of shoe making simple and comprehensible.店员鞋的制作简单和易于理解的来龙去脉。告诉我，那些显示在布兰苏梅克鞋店和何塞Albaladejo创建时尚有关的男子正装鞋保持着经典的设计。 And that precisely this gentleman, José Albaladejo Pujadas (Born in Inca in 1936), not only alma mater but a master of the process of shoe making, takes special care in keeping the shoe trends up-to-date.而且，正是这位先生，何Albaladejo Pujadas(出生于1936年在印加)，不仅母校，但一个制鞋过程中的主，需要特殊照顾，在保持鞋的发展趋势最新。 He regularly checks the upper shapes and introduces small changes, unnoticeable for connoisseurs, which make all these designs keep their freshness along the years.他定期检查，上部的形状，并引入微小的变化，为鉴赏家察觉，使所有这些设计沿线多年保持他们的新鲜感。 - Who is that Mr Albaladejo? - 那是谁先生Albaladejo?
The attentive shop assistant, who is no doubt infatuated with the idea of conceiving the shoe as a work of art, tells me:细心的店员，谁是迷恋作为一个艺术作品的构思鞋的想法毫无疑问，告诉我：- He is better-known as Pepe Albaladejo and has gained a well-deserved reputation as a shoe conceiver, designer and manufacturer.他是更好的被称为佩佩Albaladejo，并已获得作为一个鞋conceiver，设计者和制造商名不虚传。
Confidentially, I must admit that he is a renowned authority in the shoe industry, a man capable of creating and taking the Majorcan handicraft shoe to excellence.保密的，我必须承认，他是在制鞋行业，一个人能够创造和马约卡岛的手工艺鞋，以卓越的知名权威。 In the 1980s, he founded the most innovative enterprise with the highest annual turnover - reaching one million pairs per year.在20世纪80年代，他创办的最具创新性企业的年营业额最高的 - 达到每年一百万双。 After undergoing different economic crisis, he recovered, with new commercial strategies but similar designs which keep the spirit of a well-made handicraft.处于不同的经济危机后，他恢复，新的商业策略，但类似的设计，保持一个制作精良的手工艺的精神的。他好奇的眼睛，寻找丝毫不完善，察觉到任何非专业人士。 In the meantime, we-the staff- are waiting expectantly for his verdict about the state of shoes.在此期间，我们的工作人员，都在等待，期待他的有关国家的鞋的判决。
- Now, I'm getting more and more interested in meeting Mr Albaladejo -the strong appeal of his shoes leads me to it. - 现在，我越来越会议主席Albaladejo强烈呼吁他的鞋子我感兴趣。
- Actually, it won't be difficult. - 事实上，它不会是困难的。 We are, in fact, expecting him in a little while on his habitual check up, which he performs personally and on the spot.事实上，我们期待他一会儿对他习惯性的检查，他亲自执行，并当场。 So you are welcome to wait for him while browsing among a wide range of designs.因此，欢迎您浏览之间广泛的设计为他等待。 You have shown a special awareness for shoes so try to start a dialogue with other shoes, apart from that design… the one which caught your attention first.你有一个特殊的鞋意识，尝试启动对话与其他鞋，除了从设计... ...其中首先引起你的注意。
In the meantime, another customer comes into the shop.与此同时，另一位顾客进店。 He is helped by another assistant who has just said good-bye to a regular customer who couldn't find his size of a chosen design, having committed himself to have it in two days with no extra charge and admitting it is a usual practice.他是帮助另一名助理刚刚说再见老主顾找不到他选定的设计规模，犯了自己在两天内不收取额外费用，并承认它是一种惯常做法。 Their network of shops makes it possible to get any size of any design in a few days.他们的店铺网络，使人们有可能得到任何在几天之内的任何设计的大小。
Now, a gentleman is seen from the shop.现在，君子看到从车间。 He dresses elegantly.他礼服优雅。 He is discreet, without any traces of flamboyance to which fashion designers are sometimes inclined.他是谨慎的，没有华丽时装设计师有时倾向于的任何痕迹。他倒是他们。 He talks to them with his eyes!他会谈到他的眼睛! He even polishes them again, if necessary, and puts them back on the shop window.他甚至打磨一遍，如果有必要，并把商店的橱窗上，他们回来。 Then he admires the final outcome and goes outside.然后，他钦佩的最终结果和云外。 One of the shop assistants follows his instructions inside.店员之一，按照他的指示在里面。 "Move this such design a little on the right, that other such design… rise the toe cap a bit, …" “移动这样的设计，这一点上的权利，其他这样的设计... ...崛起的鞋头位，... ...”
He can finally have a peaceful break.他终于可以有一个和平的的突破。 He relaxes.他放松。 He looks for me.他看起来对我来说。 He was so self-absorbed that he hasn't been aware of my presence there all the time enjoying his work.他自我吸收，他一直没有意识到我的存在，所有的时间享受自己的工作。 This proves his devotion in search of the perfect design and the highest quality standards in production.这证明他在寻找完美的设计和生产的最高质量标准的奉献。
And now the time has come to delight in listening to Mr José Albaladejo Pujadas.现在时间已经到了喜欢听主席何塞Albaladejo Pujadas。
-This enterprise in search of the quality shoe started back in 1866, when my great-grandfather, Matías Pujadas, opened a small workshop where he manufactured handmade shoes.这家企业在搜索的质量鞋早在1866年开始，当我的曾祖父，马蒂亚斯罗Pujadas，他开了一家小作坊里生产手工鞋。 The family business passed on to his son, Mateo, who, in 1961, expanded it setting up one of the first Goodyear welted shoe factories on the Balearic Islands.家族企业传给他的儿子，Mateo的人，于1961年，扩大了它成立第一固特异巴利阿里群岛上的贴边鞋厂之一。
At that time, in 1961, I, José Albaladejo Pujadas, created a brand based on a product underneath which one of the most important shoe enterprises prevailed in Spain.当时，在1961年，我何Albaladejo Pujadas，创建下面其中最重要的制鞋企业之一在西班牙盛行的产品为基础的品牌。 Later on, in 1997, I started the current brand Carmina shoemaker.后来，在1997年，我开始目前的品牌布兰鞋匠。我们一直在生产固特异贴边鞋的制造和严格的质量控制下的高度熟练的过程。
Throughout the years, our aim has always been making the best shoes in the world.纵观这些年来，我们的目标一直一直在世界上最棒的鞋子。
Meanwhile, I have felt tempted again to admire the same shoe that seemed to be talking to me and Mr Albaladejo has made a point:同时，我已经感觉到诱惑，再次欣赏相同的运动鞋，似乎要在跟我说话，Albaladejo点：
- It's natural that you have fallen in love with this shoe. - 这是自然，你有爱了这种鞋。 It possesses its own light and colour.它拥有自己的光与色。 It belongs to one of our best special styles.它属于我们最好的特殊风格之一。 Look at the crystal clear leather closely.仔细一看清澈的皮革。 You can see yourself reflected on it, as in a mirror.你可以看到自己就可以体现出来，如一面镜子。 It's Cordovan leather (equine leather made from the shell beneath the hide on the rump of the horse).它的科尔多瓦皮革(皮革及马皮革马的臀部下方的隐藏从shell)。 There is a scarce production of it which is treated in the USA.是它的稀缺的生产，这是在美国治疗。 - What about the permanence of the traditional craftsmanship? - 对传统手工艺的永久性是什么?
- Along the way, as a manufacturer, I have never been alone. - 一路走来，作为一个制造商，我从来没有被单独。 I have always depended on my wife, Carmina.我一直依赖于我的妻子，布兰。 She has not only supported me always but she has worked as hard as I have to achieve the goal that we once set.她不仅支持我的始终，但她却硬工作，因为我要实现的目标，我们曾经设置。 Moreover, along the years, four of our six children have joined and they are now holding leading posts in the firm.此外，这些年来，我们六个孩子中有四个加入和他们现在在公司领导岗位。我们提供的补充固特异伟力生产女式皮鞋。事实上，我们的工厂是很少的一部分人产生这种鞋，蓬勃发展，并与7脚跟。 Classic boots, ankle boots and shoes with a contemporary design created by Marlene Albaladejo.经典靴，踝靴与马琳Albaladejo创造了当代设计的鞋。 Comfort, elegance and, above all, superb quality.舒适，优雅和，高于一切，质量上乘。
I am thrilled with Mr José Albaladejo Pujadas' enlightening explanations.我很高兴与主席何塞Albaladejo Pujadas“启发性的解释。 I love his shoes.我爱他的鞋子。
Before leaving the shop, promising to come back tomorrow with my wife so as she can also find her talking shoe, I couldn't resist winking an eye at my talking shoe.在离开店铺，承诺回来明天与我的妻子，所以她也可以找她谈话的鞋，我忍不住眨眼的眼睛在我说话的鞋。 We have agreed that it will wait for me tomorrow and I will come back.我们已同意将等待明天对我来说，我会回来。 I'll come back, for sure, and I'll admire this firm which Knows well how to manufacture shoes.肯定，我会回来，我会佩服这家公司深知如何制造的鞋。
But the story goes on.但故事不胜枚举。 We felt so happy with the wearability and the admiration caused by the Albaladejo shoes, that one day, on our Summer tours of Mallorca, I got hold of the card given at the shop and decided to visit the factory in Inca.我们感到高兴Albaladejo鞋造成的耐磨性和钦佩，有一天，我们的夏季旅游马洛卡，我拉住店卡，并决定在印加人的工厂参观。
My infatuation with the shoes on display in the shop lessened at the sight of the entire exhibition of the firm's men's and women's shoes in a big room full of different kinds of leather and colours and lasts decorated with pencil shoe designs on end.我的痴情，显示在整个公司的男子和妇女在一个大房间里充满了皮革和颜色的不同类型鞋展的视线减轻了店铺的鞋，并持续用铅笔鞋设计装饰结束。 That was a genuine shoe art museum!这是一个真正的鞋美术馆!楼宇成为鞋类专业人士来来去去的一个宽敞的实验室。 And there it was, in different styles- black, coloured, Cordovan, rubber sole, …- my talking shoe!它是在不同的风格，黑色，有色，科尔多瓦，橡胶鞋底，... ... - 我谈鞋! It was the twin shoe of the one I had seen in the shop.这是我在店里看到了一个双鞋子。 I gave it special attention, but I couldn't stop admiring the whole exhibit.我给它特别的关注，但我不能停止欣赏整个展览。 In the meantime, José Albaladejo very kindly gave us a tour of the factory.在此期间，何塞Albaladejo非常亲切地给了我们一个工厂参观。 He showed us the different sections in the process of shoe-manufacturing and we could admire the perfect organisation and the high-skilled workers.他向我们展示了制鞋生产过程中的不同部分，我们可以欣赏到完美的组织和高技能工人。 We were very happy, too, when he introduced us to his children- the preservers of the family heritage.我们很高兴，也当他向我们介绍了他的孩子的守护者家族传承。
Thus, we met Antonio, the general manager, Betty, who runs the company's marketing department, Carmina, who is in charge of the shop network and Marlene, who treasures her father's creative and designing style.因此，我们会见了安东尼，总经理，董赵洪娉，执行公司的营销部门，布兰，谁负责的店铺网络和马琳，珍惜她的父亲的创意和设计风格。
All of them have common foundations and bear a passion for shoes engraved in their minds and on their hearts.他们都有着共同的基础，并承担为鞋刻在他们的头脑，并在他们心中的激情。 They fully understand the essence and leitmotiv of the excellence of shoe manufacturing.他们充分了解制鞋业的卓越的精髓和主旨。
Antonio Santandreu安东尼Santandreu
Lloseta, May 2011. Lloseta，2011年5月